My suggestion… is to sheath the old board with fibreglass, using epoxy resin. This would be an economical way of extending the life of the old board without having the expense of a new replacement - at least it may put off the acquisition of a sleek, new, fast version for a couple of years! Its better to use epoxy resin than polyester resin in this type of application as it's stronger (adheres better), also is easier to work with (sanding, finishing, etc.) and cures better.

I agree that wrapping your centerboard with fiberglass is a good short-term patch. One or two layers of fine glass cloth should be sufficent. I used West Systems epoxy - it's the best I've run across over the years. My final solution to a messed up centerboard was to build a new one out of mahogony. Yeah, it took a lot of time to shape the centerboard and it's not a duplicate of the original but it works - and I feel a warmness inside about having done it myself.

you could do the centerboard in ply wood,so to have an help to shape it, infact shaping plywood the 'lines ' that appear when you reach the glue that split the wood help a lot to shape,you only will have a heavy centerboard,i suggest however to put on it glass fiber glued by epoxy.

...the rules governing Rudders are intentionally very open, to encourage innovation. The only requirements are a maximum thickness of the blade, at the waterline (25 mm max), a minimum weight of the combination of rudder, rudder head, tiller and tiller extension (3 kg, I think, check the class rules for the exact weight), and the requirement that the assembly both float and be attached to the hull so that it will not fall off if the boat capsizes. Other than these rules, almost anything is open, so use your imagination!

Laser rudder head works....but is not the full 26mm allowed......and of course you will build it to be rule compliant?

One more tidbit - an elliptical leading edge / straight trailing edge is nearly as efficient as a completely elliptical tip, and easier to build. I forget why, but going with an elliptical leading edge / straight trailing edge is stronger than the other possibility of a straight leading edge and elliptical trailing edge. Something about the forces generated by the foil.

My old Lindsey could be lifted while sailing (okay, I'd only have time to fuss with that in light air, but it COULD be done). The good thing there is it still behaves properly while sailing, because its still vertical. Ever try sailing with a rudder rotated up (or partly up)? It really loads up as soon as you turn it a bit (or heel the boat). Ugh. Breakage in big wind too - way too much stress on the blade.

I've got the Ronstan x10 telescoping version (available from layline or APS, though you have to ask for the telescopic version and hope they have it in, or go right from Ronstan). I dig it--long enough for me to single-hand from the wire with, short enough when collapsed so as not to get in the way all that much. And it looks real cool. I've been told that the plastic universal joints are no good (they break), though I haven't run into any trouble with mine yet.

Ah Phil, Save your dollars for beer and get a length of CPVC pipe from Crappy Tire (1" usually works) and wrap some hockey tape on the end to give some "stick". Attach it to the universal joint of your choice (urethane or stainless) and you are off. My experience with the telescopic extensions is that they tend to extend and/or contract when you don't want them to. As for length, again with the plastic pipe, get a long length, and start cutting it back until you find the best length for you and your boat.

I like cross country ski poles. They are light, tapered and have cool handles on them. The little pointy ends can be used as a crew prod for those days when the crew is a little slow getting out on the wire, or hauling the boat up the beach.