The following is a selection of tips & comments from over the past year or so. The messages are more or less as they appeared originally, though I have taken the liberty of editing out some of the irrelevant byplay. Where they are useful parts of the originating questions are included italicized & in (brackets). Editor’s notes within messages are enclosed in <brackets>.

 

WEIGHT & CORRECTORS

Rick Clift (2000)

…if the corrector weights are still on the boat, they should be attached to the underside of the thwart (usually thru bolted pieces of lead, with the weights stamped on the pieces.) These weights can be removed by the boat owner, but after doing so, the hull should be re-weighed by an Official Fireball Measurer, and the new weight entered on the boat certificate. When the boat is being re-weighed, the standard rules for weighing the boat apply

Rick Clift (2000)

If the corrector weights have already been removed from your boat, then the only way to get the weight of the boat down close to minimum is to consider major (or minor) surgery on the hull, to remove some of the non load carrying material originally built into the hull. This requires some thought, so nothing is done to weaken the hull. Also, you could consider sanding the hull down to bare wood, letting the hull dry out really well, and then re-epoxy the hull and paint it again, using a minimum of paint. Also, look at all the fittings on the hull, to see if any lighter parts can be used instead.

BAILERS & OTHER HARDWARE

Henry (Aug. 14, 2000)

You usually can replace the gaskets or re-seal those things and they will be fine. Used ones are tough to find, and new ones are about $60 a pop.

Steph ( Aug. 14, 2000)

I have heard that you can use an elastic band(s) around the bailer. They become an "O" ring of sorts. They are a short term solution so buy a box of them because they don't last long. If the rubber is faded and cracking use automotive hand cleaner, with the Lanolin skin moisturize (skin friendly EH!), on them. The cream revitalizes most rubbers (Hey! Don't go there!) and also makes them swell (I told you not to go there!).

Phil (Jan. 2, 2001)

Either the Elvstrom "New Large" or "SuperMax". They're both the same size, but one has the mounting flange on the outside of the hull and the other has the mounting flange on the inside of the hull. These are THE standard in Fireball bailers.

OTHER HARDWARE

Henry (Aug. 14, 2000)

Chainplates and gudgeons can be had from both APS and Layline, at reasonable costs. The sea Sure line of rudder fittings is the only thing I would suggest using. Everything else that is available here just bends and breaks. The chainplates will most likely be a stainless tang which you bend very slightly at the top to pass through the deck using a vice and vice grips. Not very scientific, but effective. Remember for all that rigging- in/out/up/down. Three sails. Need the vang to be 16:1 and flow very freely. Cleat or tie off everything else and go!

 

COCKPIT TRANSOM DRAINS

There appeared to be much confusion about what the new ruling actually allows, but the following seems to be correct.

Tom Egli ( Sep. 11, 2000)

Square or rectangular sections will conform, as long as the sides (horizontal and vertical) do not exceed the stated maximum dimension of 75 mm, and the total cross-sectional area of each 'tube' does not exceed 5,000 mm2. <one drain each side>

Since all boats are internally structured differently, the technical details of retrofitting the tubes are up to the builder/owner, but here are some suggestions:

- Use 3" or 3.25" outer diameter fiberglass tubes (interior cross-sectional area of about 3,800 mm2 and 4,560 mm2 respectively). Here in Canada, the 3" tube is relatively common, and you could check with your local windsurfer buddies for broken masts. A 2-7/8" hole drill bit, commonly used for keyholes , can be used on the transom and rear bulkhead prior to epoxying the tube to them from the inside. Final sanding of the opening can be done when the epoxy has cured. Gobs of epoxy/filler mixture should be used to anchor the tube to the bottom panel to prevent them from vibrating loose. Some reinforcing of 'ring' bulkheads (if present) may be required. This method is probably the best bet for'glass boats (chemical compatibility), and pretty good for woodies (low weight).

- Use a 3"x3"x1/8" aluminum section (interior cross-sectional area of about 4,900 mm2). Installation is similar to the fiberglass tubes, but care must be taken to ensure proper bind to the aluminum. This method is pretty good for woodies, but my experience is that you have to buy a pretty long piece of tube (you could always turn the rest into a dolly).

- If you have good access to the rear tank, you can build a 'box' by using the bottom panel as the 'bottom' of the 'box' and gluing the 'sides' and 'top' to it. If done properly, this method could actually add some strength to the rear of the boat, but could be quite tricky on a boat with decks on, and probably darn difficult for a glass boat. Nice for wooden hulls.