Henry (2000)
(From the top of the (PROCTOR) mast working down I can identify: Main Halyard, Spinny Halyard, Forestay, Jib Halyard. <Below> I have TWO lines to choose from. One is a foot below the Jib Halyard the other 18 inches above the pole fixing. The pole has fixings at one end - making it a single ender. But the boom has no hoops or rabbit ears. How is it held up? There is a piece of shock cord at one end of the boom. Do the rules allow 'lauching' poles- ie poles retreived by shock cord?)
Your boat is set up for a single ended pole and you have two topping lift fittings- one for single and one for double. The single end topping lift is the one below the jib halyard, the double is the one that looks like a mechanical advantage nightmare is the one for the double ended pole. The single ended pole is attached to the topping lift and should have a shock cord downhaul. The outboard fitting can be faced up, and the inboard end can be faced down- with the piston removed (it will NOT fall off of the ring-- I promise) The shock cord on the boom is the key! It goes from one side of the boom and hold up the inboard (aft) end of the pole when it is not in use by passing through a swivel block attached to the top of the pole a couple of inched in front of the inboard end fitting. The shock cord the passes forward around the mast, and then re-attached to the boom directly across from the other side with enough pressure on the cord to hold the pole up and out of the way!
We do, however, still move the pole from side to side after the jibe. We use double twing balls to accomplish this flawlessly. I can explain if you need on this one... different subject. Anyway- we jibe with the skipper doing the sheets and the crew doing everything else including the boom. Then, the crew reaches forward and does the pole. The trip for the outboard end should be led inside the pole exiting 8 inches or so from the inboard end. Tie a small stopper knot in the trip line at the exit and then tie off the same shackle that your swivel block (with the shock cord run through) is on- leaving a small loop or "handle" for the trip line.
When the crew goes to jibe the pole he can simple reach for the handle (since the inboard end has no piston it comes off immediately!)and at the same time the upward facing outboard end releases as you are pulling the pole aft. You can pull the pole with one motion, it scrapes the mast using it as a fulcrum to rake the pole through the rigging. When you have it most of the way around the shock cord on the downhaul and the trolley (the cord on the boom which keeps the pole where it needs to be)will snap the pole in place on the windward side of the boom. Good crew do the pole one-handed while grabbing the new guy with their other hand. Snap it into the end fitting, and the same practiced individual will still have his aft or inboard hand on the pole. Out with it.
Sounds complicated but it works, and we have come to England and challenged many to jibing contests. I won't say we were faster, but we never lost a contest!
Mark Miller (2000)
in regards to down hauls, shock cord works on dinghy boats best when also using twing setup because twing (either hook, hook and clam cleat style or barber hauler running style) help to give enough angle to the guy side of spin so that it doesn't sky the pole. also remember that on balls that reaches are what they like best and poles that sky are more likely when more down wind. also check out the concept of a single end pole with a trolley system, better hands off system because everything is always connected just the same way you fly the shoot, pole out is just a push and in is just a disconnect, for the most part it stows it self. a better KISS set up when things get hairy at mark roundings and such. if you get to US NATIONALS or some other event check out the variations on theme.
Jonathan Webb (2000)
Almost everyone on the UK circuit uses a double ended pole, sheaved with fibreglass for extra stiffness. General thinking is that gybes are easier with the double ended pole since you don't have to bring the pole back into the boat. Single ended systems always feel more solid than a centre slung pole of the same make/dimensions. If you go for single ended there is also more opportunity for the crew to poke the helm in the eye with the pole. Single ended poles require the pole uphaul to enter the mast higher than for a centre slung pole to get the same purchase.
Nick Sellars (2000)
Single ended pole systems do make for faster gybes when using standard methods. However the poles must be reinforced (HEAVILY) or they'll get trashed. The Brits seem to favour kevlar which is a mistake because its pathetic in compression which is what's doing the work. Anyway, I recently tried a different method of gybeing a trolley system pole which may have been developed or at least perfected by Gary Van Tassel II (G2 to his pals). It is at least as fast or faster than end for ending and doesn't require the heavy pole or cumbersome take down (stowage of the pole) etc. For a full description try e-mailing G2 at gbt2@aol.com. Be prepared for the expression "it's slicher'n greased snot!" This may be stretching things a tad since there are a lot of things that go into making a great crew (eg. tactical genius etc.) but at the age of 20, G2 may be the worlds best Fireball crew! Like I said it may be stretching things but I've watched him work from a rubber boat while he was showing off and I can tell ya the kid rocks!
Kent Macrae (2000)
perhaps the most useful method for storing a double ended pole is a la laser II this is accomplished by using a combination of rabbit's ears and thrusting the topping lift forward when stowing the "catch" is in order to avoid being caught during tacks (and I do sympathize with Mr. Locker there) is that when you are stowing the pole, some slack must be taken from the topping life in order to get it to hang right. Oh and as for Mr. van Tassel, he could be the best in the world, except for he's American (sorry!)
Gary Van Tassel 2 (2000)
I don't know if I'm the best but I totally believe in the trolley system! However I do it rather unusually. I think it proves to be faster. Perhaps we can spar against someone in weaymouth to see which is truly faster! See you in southern England soon!
Mike McEvoy (Aug. 2000)
On my boat the spin downhaul is bungee cord inside the pole. You need a
small bullet block inside the pole on a piece of shock cord and a small
sheave on the underside of the pole. Deadend the shock cord holding the
bullet block to the inside end of your mast end pole fitting. Deadend
another piece of shockcord to the outboard pole fitting (inside the
pole). Run the cord thru the bullet block and out through the sheave and
tie it off on the mast step.
This of course is for a single pole (i.e. not an end for end
arrangement) The cord needs to be reasonably tight but not too tight
that you have trouble getting the pole onto the mast. It effectively
stops the pole from "skying" and then use your topping lift to adjust
pole height.
Sounds clear as mud but it works.
Brian (Aug. 2000)
On a double ended pole, what you can do is simply drill a hole in the foredeck in front of the mast and line it with a plastic fairlead. run the downhaul from the pole through the hole in the deck, through some kind of small block near the mast step, and then to the back of the boat, along the floor. The downhaul can be either all bungee, or you can make the part that is outside the hull out of some kind of rope.
Rick Clift (Aug 2000)
Regarding the rigging of a spin pole downhaul, I use a double ended pole on my boat, and the pole control is done through a rope uphaul, and a shockcord downhaul. There is no problem with the pole skying in winds, as you should always have the guy under the windward reaching hook, which controls the upward lift of the sail. Using this set up, and the centre ramp on the pole, pole control is simple, and gybes are a snap. No need to get complex with the pole control, KISS rules all the time!
Tom Egli (Aug. 14, 2000)
(So what's wrong with the angle of our pole uphauls then?)
It depends on whether you're in the front or the back of the boat. 
The low topping lift angle for double-ended pole systems is a nice thing if you're in the back of the boat. One advantage is that the pole is perpendicular to the forestay when the pole is initially put onto the mast ring (simple trig), which is a good baseline position for the pole. The other advantage is that the end of the spinnaker pole does not droop below the boom and catch the helm's head during tacks (assuming that you set your topping lift to the baseline pole height position mentioned above, the higher you position the topping lift turning block, the more the pole tends to droop). A helm with a concussion is pretty slow.
The low topping lift angle for double-ended pole systems is not a nice thing if you're in the front of the boat. The main problem is that it requires a really good deal of force to push the pole out onto the mast ring if the chute is even partially filled (a very effective way to stress out or damage your rotator cuff or pectoral muscles). If the pole is preset for light winds, it dangles in the little amount of space available to get across the boat
during a tack.
Personally, I prefer a single-ended pole on a trolley. The trolley keeps the pole on the boom, away from the helm, and the high topping lift turning block position makes it easy to put the pole on the mast and adjust pole height.
Steph (Aug. 14, 2000
Another thing about having the topping lift attached at the far end of a single ended rig, is that there are less stresses to the pole in high winds. Also the low angle to the turning block requires less, not much, pull of/on the 1:1 topping lift halyard/line.
Question: which angle to the exit block makes a better for better "off forestay" action. I use the topping lift to get the pole off the forestay in high winds because it is too hairy for the crew to try themselves. If the pole starts to ride the stay too much I pull the topping lift a tad and clear 2-4" no problem.
CH (Aug. 15, 2000)
I think you are all wet on the subject of topping lifts. The height of the fwd end of the pole when it is stored on the boom is determined by the height of the turning block on the mast. End pole systems need a higher block than mid-pole set-ups. Whichever system you use, adjust the height of the turning block so that the pole swings out to the correct height when stored level on the boom. As far as ease of setting, there is less, not more, effort required to set a mid pole system because you only have to push the downhaul out half as far. As for the "low angle", the end pole system is less, not more, efficient in terms of adjusting the pole height because it is not as vertical a pulling angle as with the mid-pole system. The pole is stiffer if the topping lift is at the end of the pole. The breaking strain on a pole is from the pull of the tack of the spinnaker, which is trying to bend the pole upwards and to leeward. This is countered by the pull of the guy, which is to windward and down. The topping lift counters the downward force of guy so that adjusting the guy moves the pole forward or aft, but not down or up. In an end pole set-up, the pull of guy and topping lift put the pole in compression, which is very strong. In a mid-pole system, the pull of the guy exerts a shearing force on the pole, which causes it to bend much more than with the end pole.
The problem with the pole trolley linesystem is the accidental or crash gybe. If you are forced to gybe with the pole extended, it can be very difficult, if not impossible, to extract the pole from the leeward side and reset it on the new tack if it is permanently attached at the inboard end to the trolley line. This is especially so if you have to reach on the new gybe. Experienced crew can handle this, but my experience (learned the hard way)is that if you have to use inexperienced or pick-up crews from time to time, avoid the trolley line system.
Henry (Aug. 18, 2000)
You're thinking about loading is right on. And about pole height versus sheave on the mast position. You are a bit off on the angle for the ease of adjustment if I read you correctly, a single ended pole as a finer angle from the topping lift to the mast which is true, but the angle for the topping lift to the pole is greater, therefore effecting pole end tension. Also, we ALWAYS gybe our single ended pole after the gybe. Crash gybes, floating gybes, always. You just have to have the pole set up correctly. The inboard end should be face down with the pin removed and a groove filed into the aft/upper part of the bearing surface. The outboard end should be facing up.
The pole tripline should exit into the pole near the outboard taper and exit the pole roughly 12" from the inboard end. With no tension on the line a stopper ball or knot should keep the tail from entering back into the pole. Then, a loop should be made by tying the tail to the eyestrap that holds the bungee swivel block. The loop should hang down 5-6". You must have double twings.
When you gybe, crew lets go of the sheet and goes for the twings, jib, and boom in quick order. Gybe ho. As the boom is coming over the skipper pulls the new sheet/old guy until the spinnaker rounds the headstay. Crew stands, pulls nothing but the loop HARD pulling just the first few feet of the pole to windward. The jib should be NOT sheeted in, if at all. The outboard end of the pole will drag across the leech among other things. At the end of the hard pull the crew just drops the pole and bungee does the rest, giving him the .1 seconds he needs to put the new guy in and set the pole.
We do em' consistant between 3-4 seconds. Chute never folds. And if the pole is set correctly it never hangs low on the boom.
1001 ways to skin a cat. Choose anyone you like. But I can skin em' faster.
Phil (Mar. 20, 2001)
Re-rigged my spin pole over the winter following <Henry’s> instructions, and this weekend found the pole was popping off the mast (hey, you GUARANTEED it wouldn't) This is with a Holt-Allan pole end, after snapping a SuperSpar pole end on Friday - 2nd one of those damn things I've broken. Used a rat-tail file to put a groove in the Holt-Allan pole end, that worked a bit better, but had to keep the pole higher than optimal sometimes. Any tips on sorting this out, or do I just put the pin in the pole-end and call it all a bad idea?